To E (A: Graceland!)

Cue Paul Simon: "My traveling companions are ghosts and empty sockets; I'm looking at ghosts and empties, but I've reason to believe we all will be received in Graceland."

First things first: The real pic of Graceland is here. I don't want you to think I cheated by not taking a picture of the mansion! No, no ... in the pursuit of the perfect Memphis album, I drove all the way out to Graceland after work and mingled with the gawkers who came from distant lands to partake of All Things Elvis.

I didn't take the tour, but I have a good reason: I promised a friend (a Memphian who, like me, has never seen the inside of Graceland) we'd visit before Paul and I move. So unless he reneges, I'm holding off on that tour. Friends before photos. :)

The collage above -- you can see a larger version if you click it -- is made of photos I snapped yesterday of some of the interesting things people have scribbled on the wall outside Graceland. Most people just sign their names, but I love the people who write "Elvis Lives" or "You da man" or (my favorite) "Marry me, Elvis!" Nothing like proposing to a dead guy -- if he's really dead. Playing the X-Files theme here would be a nice touch.

For someone who hasn't taken the tour, I have had a pretty solid Graceland experience. I was initiated when I was an intern on the copy desk at the Commercial Appeal. When August rolled around, the editors -- most of whom had been there for 15-plus years -- told the other intern and me, "Look, every year we edit these damn Graceland vigil stories leading up to the anniversary of his death. We're passing those stories off on you." So he and I edited the stories. As a "reward," a few of the editors took us to the candlelight death vigil.

If you can't see the vigil in person, catch the video online in August. I can't even begin to describe how weird it is. The city blocks off the street (appropriately named Elvis Presley Boulevard), and people line up for blocks to carry candles to the memorial garden where he's buried. Fans make shrines with photos and votives. The year I went, I saw one group holding a séance. Several people were sobbing. Many others were drinking. It was an interesting experience.

So there you have it. My Graceland tale. More photos here. And when I do take that tour, I'll post some pics of the Jungle Room. Promise.